Monday, 10 October 2022

[This would have been my father's 66th birthday, he was born on 4th Oct 1908.] 

Friday Oct 4th

This Hotel which had been recommended to us did not come up

to any standard of efficiency.   Only one Toilet with a Wash

basin that was cracked in many places had to be shared by

both Ladies & Gents.  It was really a dirty Place. If you are

asked for extra cash or any payment at all, never pay this

to the person who is asking. Always pay the Cashier & get

a receipt.   Our object for today was to get to the Borders

of Afghanistan & Pakistan & get cleared of both. We had

to cover 144 miles from Kabul to the Border & this part of the

journey took up through a Pass which drops about 7000 ft.

This 144 miles is the only part of Afghanistan that has

scenery which is really beautiful, the roads through the

pass were good.      We got to the Border & after a two hour

wait we were told “Finished” but then we were stopped

again at another Office, finally we got out of Afghanistan

at 3.30. Our next object was to reach the Pakistan

 

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Border, this we did when the milage was 8577. After a

considerable wait at different Offices we got through

the time now is well past 5 P.M.    I might mention that

to leave Afghanistan every person must pay 100 afghanis

so with the tolls which amounted to 250 it proved

expensive.    As there was only two of us I suppose that no

complaints can be made. there were Coach Parties

in front & behind us, so one can emagine how much they

collect from the Tourist to enter & leave Afghanistan

At the Afghan Custom we were searched but although

the search was not thorough it appeared to satisfy him.

Our main object now was to drive a short way and then

go through the Khyber Pass in the morning, we had

agreed with Ray & Nicky also Mike & Jeremy to go through

in a convoy, as so many evil things are being said

about the Pass.        We were on our own & drove on

but there was no place to Park for the night we

carried on, it was really a case that we had to. It

soon became dark & after a serious jolt which was

caused by a break in the road we got on & went

all the way through the Pass in the dark, we

had no trouble, other than that jolt, we reached the

Customs at the other end of the Khyber Pass & our Carnet

was asked for  everything in order we carried on


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We made enquiries about a Camp Site but had no luck, then

saw a College & drove inside to ask permission to stay there

in their grounds for the night. We received the attention

of a gent who said we could not do so but he would

direct us to a Hotel this he did it was the Jans Hotel

& we had a room for the night & Breakfast. This Hotel

is a place that I would fully recommend to any traveller

it was clean & the Service was good, because of the delays

at both Borders our milage for Friday was only 180

miles. As we drove through the Pass on the last stages

of Afghanistan we saw Hundreds of Families on the move

coming down from the Mountain tops, some had just a couple

of Donkeys whilst others had great herds of Camels Sheep Donkeys

But where these Families go to I have yet to know.

The total milage at the end of the day for Friday 8612

Sat Oct 5th

This Hotel provided us with a good rest & after this we went on in the

direction of Lahore, we travelled along the road which was not too bad

Bumpy in places, diversion on the road was made with Railway sleepers

over a river, these Railway sleepers were all loose & one can emagine my

feelings when I reached the other side, to complete this diversion we

had about 440 yards to drive through caked Mud it was a very rough

ride, further along we saw 2 Buses in a smash up, the driving standard

is as poor that one has to expect this sort of thing, overtaking on the Blind side


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is a common factor. Horse traffic continues to be plentiful & Bullock

carts are used quite a lot.    Cyclists are numerous, Rickshaws,

3 Wheeler Taxis are a read hazzard to any driver, they just drive as

if they have only a few inches to spare. We reached Rawalpindi & stopped

at the Flashmans Hotel we parked in the grounds at 20 per night & enjoyed

the benefits of Swimming Pool, Showers, Toilets, it was hot & Sunny

but even in the grounds of this Hotel we were worried by Hawkers.

We took a stroll during the evening to the American Imperial & Pasted letters

to Nell, Brenda & Mum. Our milage was 8719.

Sunday Oct 6th

We spent the whole day at this Hotel, in the morning we went again

to the American Imperial, bought 2 cards and sent these to Hugh & Iain

after this we had a Swim & Sunbathed. It was here that the Radio

suddenly gave out after listening to London, we did not travel in the Van

so the Milage remained at 8719

Monday Oct 7th

After having a Two day rest at this Hotel we took the road to Lahore which was

a distance of 175 miles & we reached there by 3PM. the road from

Rawalpindi to Lahore was narrow in places & the surface of the road was poor

We had the usual trouble with the Coaches all the way through. The village

along the road where crowded with people, Horse carts & Herds of

Animals. It did rather surprise us to see the number of animals that lay

dead by the roadside. How many die during the course of a year is a

question that needs an answer, but they are unattended & just wander about

 

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across these Main roads, we have seen this all through the whole of Asia.

The drivers of Horse carts urge the Horses in between traffic & it is surprising

that these Horses do not suffer injury, we had to pay Two Tolls to cross

bridges before entering Lahore which is a Town of all Hurry & Bustle, but again

we were lucky, a car stopped & beckoned us, he wanted to know where we

were going, we told him & again it was follow me. People are very

Polite & helpful to Tourists, he took us to a Hotel where we booked for a

night in the grounds, this Hotel was Fallettis [Faletti’s]. In Lahore there is an A. A. House

& that is the first time since leaving England that we have seen any sign

of road help. This Hotel is not one I would recommend to anyone, these

Hotels differ so much in quality that it is by staying you can learn the

difference & pass opinion along to other travellers. We took a stroll in the

evening to the Market Place. Plenty of Barrow Boys & shoppers. One has to be

extreemly cautious whilst walking along. Drain holes & Pit holes are

left uncovered, the Iron hoops used as handles are a hazzard for anyone

to trip over. The main Rd was clean but the Side turnings were all dirt &

dust. the traffic of this part seems to obey the Traffic lights better than

anywhere else in the whole of Asia. It is dangerous to drive after dark as

it is only cars that have any lights. You never see light on Cycles, Taxis

Horse traffic or 3 wheelers. Our milage is now 8894.

Tuesday Oct 8th

We started away from this Hotel and for 12 miles we tried to clear the Town

& its suberbs.    It is a place that one would have great difficulty to describe

Stalls, People, Horse & Bullock Carts, Cycles, Motor Cycles in fact it appeared

 

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to be that there was not room for another single person to be here.

Patience is required to the limit, Cattle & Bullocks just wander

through these streets as they wish, no one appears to own them, they

just wander in and out of the traffic. The streets are covered with

Dung yet the people walk about bare footed. The whole place has a

smell about it that cannot be described. In my opinion is that

should anyone wishing to earn a fortune for the Rhubarb growers of

England, they have a future providing Export is allowed.

We reached the Pakistan Custom at 10AM, the milage at the Border was

8910, everyone was polite and we were through by 10.25. We then

proceeded to the Border of India, the atmosphere with everyone was really

pleasant, there was not a lot of private traffic at either Custom & we got

through quite easily, we then had to drive to the Indian Custom House

there we drove alongside a German car which the Customs were dealing

with. The contents of this car were being placed on the ground & then after

a lengthy discussion with the two fellows all the contents & Packages were

put back into the rear of the Car. These two fellows were then sent to

different places & the keys were demanded by the officials. Elsie & I

then had to go into the Office to declare what items of value we had &

these items were examined & listed, this list was given to us & we were

told to retain it & produce it as & when we leave India. The goods listed

would be allowed out but if you lose the list you will be expected to pay

duty on these items. The Custom Official then came out to the Van to

see what we had in it & after making his examination told us we

 

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were clear.      Our attention then went to the car which was being examined

on our arrival, we were told that 72 Kilogramme of Hashis had been found in it

& the Custom Official were literally taking the car to bits, in fact when we

left they were taking the padding out of the seats. Photographers were

in action. We got away by 3.30 and made our way to Ludliana, but

got lost in Amritsar. I think that we asked everyone for help to direct us

but no one seemed to understand.     In India there are 600 Million people

and I should say that everyone here is the owner of a Cycle. At long last

we got away & found the road to Ambula after everyone had told us it was

in a different direction. On reaching Ambula we asked for a Place in which we

could Park for the night we proceeded on & were told the Police Station was 27 Km

further along the road. We drove to this Police Station and the Police escorted

us by Motor Cycle to Police Headquarters. On arrival we were escorted into

position & made very welcome. A Police investigation was in progress & we sat

and watched , it was interesting. We were then taken into the Chiefs

Office & had Tea & Biscuits we were given Eggs & Apples & really made

to feel at Home. We then told the Chief that we just wanted to

Park somewhere for the night & his reply was “Be my Guests”

We were really made a fuss of and I feel that it would be

polite to express my thanks for the curtesy shown to us, really

when we most needed it. We had travelled 157 miles today

& that included nearly running over a Puppy. The mileage is

now 9051


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Wednesday 9th Oct

We left the Police Headquarters soon after 9AM & went on

towards Delhi, some parts of the road were good & you could

drive fast. Dogs lay dead along the road, but I put this

down to the fact that as you drive along Dogs chase after

you barking, if this happens to Lorries & Coaches it is not

surprising that so many get killed.     Donkeys wander

across road but more consideration is given to them. When

we arrived in Delhi out first task was to locate the A.A.

Office which is advertised on the R.A.C. Route. It took us

over an hour to find this Office & when we did find it & make

enquiries about 3rd Party Insurance they just did not want

to know about it, in fact I was disgusted with them &

their more or less attitude of do not come to us.    We then

went to an Insurance Office that we saw & they did not

do anything like that so we decided to forget it & take

a chance. When we returned to the Van it was raining

& we were pestered by a Hawker to buy Grapefruit. It was

at this place that we met Nar Singh a Police Officer who was on

leave & he offered to help us find a Hotel, he showed us the

way to the Imperial Hotel & we booked in there & decided

to have a few days off. Nah Singh offered to show us

around Delhi & we accepted, he took us to see the Sound

& Light Show that evening & we then made arrangements

 

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to meet him in the Reception Room at 9AM on Thursday our

Milage now is 9228

Thursday Oct 10

   Nar Singh arrived promply & he had made all necessary arrangements for

the day he had hired a car for the whole day & we set out to see the sights

of New & Old Delhi. Nar Singh was a good interpreter & being a Police Officer

we had many privileges for the day. We visited several places & he described

everything to us in detail. The places we visited included the Qual Mirar a

hugh pillar which had been built in the 12 cent, inside of which was a winding

staircase but the public were now only allowed to the first balcony, the

building had been struck by lightning sometime previously so the upper

balconies were regarded as unsafe. School Children were there visiting, also in

the place was a tall Pillar which you stood with your back to & then try to touch

your hands.   I only just managed to do this & I was regarded as a faithful son of

Somebody & told I would be lucky. The Jama Masjid is a building carved

completely in Solid Marble, the Carvings, the Floors The ceilings & everything

are in Marble. This is something that one has to see for oneself to believe it

possible to be done, but this was done centuries ago & no tools were used except

hammer & chisel. Gandhi Tomb, this place is very sacred to the Indian people

our guide, Nar Singh, was a firm believer in Gandhi & Nerhu, this Tomb is

where Gandhi was cremated, it shows where the Head & feet lay. This Tomb

was a hugh stone work of art & engraved in his memory. The Lawns of this

ground were well kept & the grass was being cut by a mower which was

being drawn by a Bullock. The National Museum where treasures

 

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of untold value are Kept, carvings from the 1st to the 16th Century were

exhibited, and showed the skill and craft of the people of those ages.

The Tomb of Hunayun the 2nd Emperor of Mughal, is a sacred place

and each time that you visit a place which is sacred to the Indian people

you must remove your shoes. Nehru’s House, like Gandhi’s are

now Museum & the people are free to visit them. They show Pictures of

these Leaders & stories of their Radio Broadcasts to the People of India

also they show pictures of these Leaders from Boyhood to their death.

We then were taken to the Presidents House & on our way we passed the

Indian Gate, there at the Crossroads we saw a Traffic Policeman directing

the Traffic with the actions of a Ballet Dancer. This Officer had been given an

award for his actions & we were told that many Tourists came to this point to

Photograph him & his actions. At the Presidents House a session was in progress

so we were not allowed in, so we were taken to Parliament House & had that all

described to us, where the Members sat, How they Vote, How the votes are

recorded, the driver of the Car came with us into this Building and it was the

first time he had seen the inside of the Parliament House, he was 60 years of age

and had lived in Delhi all his life. The Red Fort, we visited that again

& saw it in daylight, we had visited the Son-et-Lumiere last evening

for the Sound & Light show which were effective & in that sound they give

the story of the Red Fort & how the jewels were taken away by the Pakistanis

on Horses Camels & Asses.     We then went to another sacred place and

shown Mahomets footprints, his hair & ashes etc, by now it had started

to rain & we left and were taken around Old Delhi, this is a place I

 

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would never wish to see again. It is dirty, full of Beggars & Market places

which smell awful, Children are the main beggars in Old Delhi, it is

obvious that they are brought up to this kind of life. Cycles for sale there

were hundreds of them new and second hand. The Jewellery market &

the Fish Market. These are just a few of the Places that Nar Singh

took us to. It was still raining & we went back to the Hotel & had a

bath. Nar Singh returned with us, we paid the car off & after making

arrangements for Friday he left we had by then decided to stay in

the Hotel for another night so we would leave Delhi on Sat.

Friday 11th Oct

As we had decided to stay in the Hotel for another night we got up about 8.30

had breakfast & then decided to take a walk around the Town at our leisure

to have a quiet day. We went to Information & were told where to buy a map

We bought a map of the roads of India, then we walked back and visited

the Office of India Shipping Co. to find out about shipping the Van and

ourselves to Penang from Madras. We were surprised that everything

could be done by that Office so we made the arrangements for the 17th

Nov.     We had tried several places in England & they could do

nothing for us except quote a price of £400 plus 40% surcharge. This

Office quoted us £95 for the van & £68 per person first class. So my

advice to any traveller anticipating this journey is to leave the

Shipping arrangements until you reach New Delhi & visit this

Office. Nar Singh arrived at the Hotel room at 3PM. He told


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me where to take the Radio to be repaired. I had mentioned to him

previously that it was not working, he took us to the Radio Shop & it

promised by 6PM. This was because of us leaving Delhi the

following morning.     It was only a minor defect & we collected it,

it now works alright.   We were making enquiries about Rest Houses

along the route & as we could not get the information we needed, Nar

Singh did quite a lot of work & made efforts of where we could get this.

We had to pick someone up at 7PM & he would lead us to an address

where we could get all the information needed, everything was done to

our satisfaction books and addresses were supplied, after this we went

to Nah Singh’s Home he introduced us to his wife & children and he

appeared to be greatly honoured by our visit, he had already told us

of how he married.     The Indian way, of course, is a tradition

that has been going on for Thousands of years but, personally, I do

not agree with it.        Nar Singh returned to the Hotel with us & said

that he would arrive tomorrow to escort us out of Delhi and make

certain we would be on the right road to Agra.

Sat Oct 12th

We loaded up the Van with articles we had used at the Hotel, & then

made another attempt to get Insurance but there was no one there

so we went back, packed the rest of our things Paid the Hotel Bill

Posted letters to Mum & Brenda and waited for Nar Singh, he arrived

promptly so we started off towards Agra with our guide giving

directions as to which way we should go.      He chose his spot &

said to could get a Bus Lane. He refused any payment for


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his services & this is something which I shall consider at a later

date & choose a personality to mention about his Kindness & Services

If any person who is contemplating visiting New Delhi, I could

thoroughly recommend him as a Guide. Honest, trustworthy &

thoroughly reliable. It was raining & very heavy at times.

As we got along towards Agra & again had the usual difficulty

of finding a Hotel, we made enquiries at the Police Station but they

were not a lot of help, then after a long while we asked & two fellows

on a Motor Cycle said follow us, so we found ourselves at Clarks

Hotel Agra so we booked in for two nights with the object of seeing

the Taj Mahal tomorrow.       Clarks Hotel appears to be better than

the Imperial the Service is so much better, we had driven

137 miles so the total milage on the Clock now is 9365

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