[This would have been my father's 66th birthday, he was born on 4th Oct 1908.]
Friday Oct 4th
This Hotel which had been recommended to us did not come up
to any standard of efficiency. Only one Toilet with a Wash
basin that was cracked in many places had to be shared by
both Ladies & Gents. It was really a dirty Place. If you are
asked for extra cash or any payment at all, never pay this
to the person who is asking. Always pay the Cashier & get
a receipt. Our object for today was to get to the Borders
of Afghanistan & Pakistan & get cleared of both. We had
to cover 144 miles from Kabul to the Border & this part of the
journey took up through a Pass which drops about 7000 ft.
This 144 miles is the only part of Afghanistan that has
scenery which is really beautiful, the roads through the
pass were good. We got to the Border & after a two hour
wait we were told “Finished” but then we were stopped
again at another Office, finally we got out of Afghanistan
at 3.30. Our next object was to reach the Pakistan
Page 16b
Border, this we did when the milage was 8577. After a
considerable wait at different Offices we got through
the time now is well past 5 P.M. I might mention that
to leave Afghanistan every person must pay 100 afghanis
so with the tolls which amounted to 250 it proved
expensive. As there was only two of us I suppose that no
complaints can be made. there were Coach Parties
in front & behind us, so one can emagine how much they
collect from the Tourist to enter & leave Afghanistan
At the Afghan Custom we were searched but although
the search was not thorough it appeared to satisfy him.
Our main object now was to drive a short way and then
go through the Khyber Pass in the morning, we had
agreed with Ray & Nicky also Mike & Jeremy to go through
in a convoy, as so many evil things are being said
about the Pass. We were on our own & drove on
but there was no place to Park for the night we
carried on, it was really a case that we had to. It
soon became dark & after a serious jolt which was
caused by a break in the road we got on & went
all the way through the Pass in the dark, we
had no trouble, other than that jolt, we reached the
Customs at the other end of the Khyber Pass & our Carnet
was asked for everything in order we carried on
Page 17a
We made enquiries about a Camp Site but had no luck, then
saw a College & drove inside to ask permission to stay there
in their grounds for the night. We received the attention
of a gent who said we could not do so but he would
direct us to a Hotel this he did it was the Jans Hotel
& we had a room for the night & Breakfast. This Hotel
is a place that I would fully recommend to any traveller
it was clean & the Service was good, because of the delays
at both Borders our milage for Friday was only 180
miles. As we drove through the Pass on the last stages
of Afghanistan we saw Hundreds of Families on the move
coming down from the Mountain tops, some had just a couple
of Donkeys whilst others had great herds of Camels Sheep Donkeys
But where these Families go to I have yet to know.
The total milage at the end of the day for Friday 8612
Sat Oct 5th
This Hotel provided us with a good rest & after this we went on in the
direction of Lahore, we travelled along the road which was not too bad
Bumpy in places, diversion on the road was made with Railway sleepers
over a river, these Railway sleepers were all loose & one can emagine my
feelings when I reached the other side, to complete this diversion we
had about 440 yards to drive through caked Mud it was a very rough
ride, further along we saw 2 Buses in a smash up, the driving standard
is as poor that one has to expect this sort of thing, overtaking on the Blind side
Page 17b
is a common factor. Horse traffic continues to be plentiful & Bullock
carts are used quite a lot. Cyclists are numerous, Rickshaws,
3 Wheeler Taxis are a read hazzard to any driver, they just drive as
if they have only a few inches to spare. We reached Rawalpindi & stopped
at the Flashmans Hotel we parked in the grounds at 20 per night & enjoyed
the benefits of Swimming Pool, Showers, Toilets, it was hot & Sunny
but even in the grounds of this Hotel we were worried by Hawkers.
We took a stroll during the evening to the American Imperial & Pasted letters
to Nell, Brenda & Mum. Our milage was 8719.
Sunday Oct 6th
We spent the whole day at this Hotel, in the morning we went again
to the American Imperial, bought 2 cards and sent these to Hugh & Iain
after this we had a Swim & Sunbathed. It was here that the Radio
suddenly gave out after listening to London, we did not travel in the Van
so the Milage remained at 8719
Monday Oct 7th
After having a Two day rest at this Hotel we took the road to Lahore which was
a distance of 175 miles & we reached there by 3PM. the road from
Rawalpindi to Lahore was narrow in places & the surface of the road was poor
We had the usual trouble with the Coaches all the way through. The village
along the road where crowded with people, Horse carts & Herds of
Animals. It did rather surprise us to see the number of animals that lay
dead by the roadside. How many die during the course of a year is a
question that needs an answer, but they are unattended & just wander about
Page 18a
across these Main roads, we have seen this all through the whole of Asia.
The drivers of Horse carts urge the Horses in between traffic & it is surprising
that these Horses do not suffer injury, we had to pay Two Tolls to cross
bridges before entering Lahore which is a Town of all Hurry & Bustle, but again
we were lucky, a car stopped & beckoned us, he wanted to know where we
were going, we told him & again it was follow me. People are very
Polite & helpful to Tourists, he took us to a Hotel where we booked for a
night in the grounds, this Hotel was Fallettis [Faletti’s]. In Lahore there is an A. A. House
& that is the first time since leaving England that we have seen any sign
of road help. This Hotel is not one I would recommend to anyone, these
Hotels differ so much in quality that it is by staying you can learn the
difference & pass opinion along to other travellers. We took a stroll in the
evening to the Market Place. Plenty of Barrow Boys & shoppers. One has to be
extreemly cautious whilst walking along. Drain holes & Pit holes are
left uncovered, the Iron hoops used as handles are a hazzard for anyone
to trip over. The main Rd was clean but the Side turnings were all dirt &
dust. the traffic of this part seems to obey the Traffic lights better than
anywhere else in the whole of Asia. It is dangerous to drive after dark as
it is only cars that have any lights. You never see light on Cycles, Taxis
Horse traffic or 3 wheelers. Our milage is now 8894.
Tuesday Oct 8th
We started away from this Hotel and for 12 miles we tried to clear the Town
& its suberbs. It is a place that one would have great difficulty to describe
Stalls, People, Horse & Bullock Carts, Cycles, Motor Cycles in fact it appeared
Page 18b
to be that there was not room for another single person to be here.
Patience is required to the limit, Cattle & Bullocks just wander
through these streets as they wish, no one appears to own them, they
just wander in and out of the traffic. The streets are covered with
Dung yet the people walk about bare footed. The whole place has a
smell about it that cannot be described. In my opinion is that
should anyone wishing to earn a fortune for the Rhubarb growers of
England, they have a future providing Export is allowed.
We reached the Pakistan Custom at 10AM, the milage at the Border was
8910, everyone was polite and we were through by 10.25. We then
proceeded to the Border of India, the atmosphere with everyone was really
pleasant, there was not a lot of private traffic at either Custom & we got
through quite easily, we then had to drive to the Indian Custom House
there we drove alongside a German car which the Customs were dealing
with. The contents of this car were being placed on the ground & then after
a lengthy discussion with the two fellows all the contents & Packages were
put back into the rear of the Car. These two fellows were then sent to
different places & the keys were demanded by the officials. Elsie & I
then had to go into the Office to declare what items of value we had &
these items were examined & listed, this list was given to us & we were
told to retain it & produce it as & when we leave India. The goods listed
would be allowed out but if you lose the list you will be expected to pay
duty on these items. The Custom Official then came out to the Van to
see what we had in it & after making his examination told us we
Page 19a
were clear. Our attention then went to the car which was being examined
on our arrival, we were told that 72 Kilogramme of Hashis had been found in it
& the Custom Official were literally taking the car to bits, in fact when we
left they were taking the padding out of the seats. Photographers were
in action. We got away by 3.30 and made our way to Ludliana, but
got lost in Amritsar. I think that we asked everyone for help to direct us
but no one seemed to understand. In India there are 600 Million people
and I should say that everyone here is the owner of a Cycle. At long last
we got away & found the road to Ambula after everyone had told us it was
in a different direction. On reaching Ambula we asked for a Place in which we
could Park for the night we proceeded on & were told the Police Station was 27 Km
further along the road. We drove to this Police Station and the Police escorted
us by Motor Cycle to Police Headquarters. On arrival we were escorted into
position & made very welcome. A Police investigation was in progress & we sat
and watched , it was interesting. We were then taken into the Chiefs
Office & had Tea & Biscuits we were given Eggs & Apples & really made
to feel at Home. We then told the Chief that we just wanted to
Park somewhere for the night & his reply was “Be my Guests”
We were really made a fuss of and I feel that it would be
polite to express my thanks for the curtesy shown to us, really
when we most needed it. We had travelled 157 miles today
& that included nearly running over a Puppy. The mileage is
now 9051
Page 19b
Wednesday 9th Oct
We left the Police Headquarters soon after 9AM & went on
towards Delhi, some parts of the road were good & you could
drive fast. Dogs lay dead along the road, but I put this
down to the fact that as you drive along Dogs chase after
you barking, if this happens to Lorries & Coaches it is not
surprising that so many get killed. Donkeys wander
across road but more consideration is given to them. When
we arrived in Delhi out first task was to locate the A.A.
Office which is advertised on the R.A.C. Route. It took us
over an hour to find this Office & when we did find it & make
enquiries about 3rd Party Insurance they just did not want
to know about it, in fact I was disgusted with them &
their more or less attitude of do not come to us. We then
went to an Insurance Office that we saw & they did not
do anything like that so we decided to forget it & take
a chance. When we returned to the Van it was raining
& we were pestered by a Hawker to buy Grapefruit. It was
at this place that we met Nar Singh a Police Officer who was on
leave & he offered to help us find a Hotel, he showed us the
way to the Imperial Hotel & we booked in there & decided
to have a few days off. Nah Singh offered to show us
around Delhi & we accepted, he took us to see the Sound
& Light Show that evening & we then made arrangements
Page 20a
to meet him in the Reception Room at 9AM on Thursday our
Milage now is 9228
Thursday Oct 10
Nar Singh arrived promply & he had made all necessary arrangements for
the day he had hired a car for the whole day & we set out to see the sights
of New & Old Delhi. Nar Singh was a good interpreter & being a Police Officer
we had many privileges for the day. We visited several places & he described
everything to us in detail. The places we visited included the Qual Mirar a
hugh pillar which had been built in the 12 cent, inside of which was a winding
staircase but the public were now only allowed to the first balcony, the
building had been struck by lightning sometime previously so the upper
balconies were regarded as unsafe. School Children were there visiting, also in
the place was a tall Pillar which you stood with your back to & then try to touch
your hands. I only just managed to do this & I was regarded as a faithful son of
Somebody & told I would be lucky. The Jama Masjid is a building carved
completely in Solid Marble, the Carvings, the Floors The ceilings & everything
are in Marble. This is something that one has to see for oneself to believe it
possible to be done, but this was done centuries ago & no tools were used except
hammer & chisel. Gandhi Tomb, this place is very sacred to the Indian people
our guide, Nar Singh, was a firm believer in Gandhi & Nerhu, this Tomb is
where Gandhi was cremated, it shows where the Head & feet lay. This Tomb
was a hugh stone work of art & engraved in his memory. The Lawns of this
ground were well kept & the grass was being cut by a mower which was
being drawn by a Bullock. The National Museum where treasures
Page 20b
of untold value are Kept, carvings from the 1st to the 16th Century were
exhibited, and showed the skill and craft of the people of those ages.
The Tomb of Hunayun the 2nd Emperor of Mughal, is a sacred place
and each time that you visit a place which is sacred to the Indian people
you must remove your shoes. Nehru’s House, like Gandhi’s are
now Museum & the people are free to visit them. They show Pictures of
these Leaders & stories of their Radio Broadcasts to the People of India
also they show pictures of these Leaders from Boyhood to their death.
We then were taken to the Presidents House & on our way we passed the
Indian Gate, there at the Crossroads we saw a Traffic Policeman directing
the Traffic with the actions of a Ballet Dancer. This Officer had been given an
award for his actions & we were told that many Tourists came to this point to
Photograph him & his actions. At the Presidents House a session was in progress
so we were not allowed in, so we were taken to Parliament House & had that all
described to us, where the Members sat, How they Vote, How the votes are
recorded, the driver of the Car came with us into this Building and it was the
first time he had seen the inside of the Parliament House, he was 60 years of age
and had lived in Delhi all his life. The Red Fort, we visited that again
& saw it in daylight, we had visited the Son-et-Lumiere last evening
for the Sound & Light show which were effective & in that sound they give
the story of the Red Fort & how the jewels were taken away by the Pakistanis
on Horses Camels & Asses. We then went to another sacred place and
shown Mahomets footprints, his hair & ashes etc, by now it had started
to rain & we left and were taken around Old Delhi, this is a place I
Page 21a
would never wish to see again. It is dirty, full of Beggars & Market places
which smell awful, Children are the main beggars in Old Delhi, it is
obvious that they are brought up to this kind of life. Cycles for sale there
were hundreds of them new and second hand. The Jewellery market &
the Fish Market. These are just a few of the Places that Nar Singh
took us to. It was still raining & we went back to the Hotel & had a
bath. Nar Singh returned with us, we paid the car off & after making
arrangements for Friday he left we had by then decided to stay in
the Hotel for another night so we would leave Delhi on Sat.
Friday 11th Oct
As we had decided to stay in the Hotel for another night we got up about 8.30
had breakfast & then decided to take a walk around the Town at our leisure
to have a quiet day. We went to Information & were told where to buy a map
We bought a map of the roads of India, then we walked back and visited
the Office of India Shipping Co. to find out about shipping the Van and
ourselves to Penang from Madras. We were surprised that everything
could be done by that Office so we made the arrangements for the 17th
Nov. We had tried several places in England & they could do
nothing for us except quote a price of £400 plus 40% surcharge. This
Office quoted us £95 for the van & £68 per person first class. So my
advice to any traveller anticipating this journey is to leave the
Shipping arrangements until you reach New Delhi & visit this
Office. Nar Singh arrived at the Hotel room at 3PM. He told
Page 21b
me where to take the Radio to be repaired. I had mentioned to him
previously that it was not working, he took us to the Radio Shop & it
promised by 6PM. This was because of us leaving Delhi the
following morning. It was only a minor defect & we collected it,
it now works alright. We were making enquiries about Rest Houses
along the route & as we could not get the information we needed, Nar
Singh did quite a lot of work & made efforts of where we could get this.
We had to pick someone up at 7PM & he would lead us to an address
where we could get all the information needed, everything was done to
our satisfaction books and addresses were supplied, after this we went
to Nah Singh’s Home he introduced us to his wife & children and he
appeared to be greatly honoured by our visit, he had already told us
of how he married. The Indian way, of course, is a tradition
that has been going on for Thousands of years but, personally, I do
not agree with it. Nar Singh returned to the Hotel with us & said
that he would arrive tomorrow to escort us out of Delhi and make
certain we would be on the right road to Agra.
Sat Oct 12th
We loaded up the Van with articles we had used at the Hotel, & then
made another attempt to get Insurance but there was no one there
so we went back, packed the rest of our things Paid the Hotel Bill
Posted letters to Mum & Brenda and waited for Nar Singh, he arrived
promptly so we started off towards Agra with our guide giving
directions as to which way we should go. He chose his spot &
said to could get a Bus Lane. He refused any payment for
Page 22a
his services & this is something which I shall consider at a later
date & choose a personality to mention about his Kindness & Services
If any person who is contemplating visiting New Delhi, I could
thoroughly recommend him as a Guide. Honest, trustworthy &
thoroughly reliable. It was raining & very heavy at times.
As we got along towards Agra & again had the usual difficulty
of finding a Hotel, we made enquiries at the Police Station but they
were not a lot of help, then after a long while we asked & two fellows
on a Motor Cycle said follow us, so we found ourselves at Clarks
Hotel Agra so we booked in for two nights with the object of seeing
the Taj Mahal tomorrow. Clarks Hotel appears to be better than
the Imperial the Service is so much better, we had driven
137 miles so the total milage on the Clock now is 9365
No comments:
Post a Comment